The Perfect Winter Equestrian Wardrobe

The weather is colder, and as I sit here typing this, it is raining outside. Time to start hauling all the winter clothes out of storage. My winter stuff is mostly layers. I tend to be one of those people who run hot and cold, so adjustability is always top on my list.

Several years ago I saw a list entitled something along the lines of "100 Must Have Items for the Perfect Wardrobe" in one of the fashion magazines...I want to say it was in Glamour but I may be wrong. Their list was all fine and good, but decidedly disfunctional for those of us who would rather be in the barn than anywhere else. In reality we all end up having two wardrobes, one for horse stuff, one for the rest of our lives. So, for kicks and giggles I put together my own versions of the list; one for fall/winter, one for spring/summer. So, for everyone's interest, my fall/winter list, based on the weather in Utah and being at the barn 7 days a week, riding 5 of those days on average (57 items for those counting).

• 14 pairs wool or other warm tall boot socks. (Extras are good in case of holes, boot leaks, etc.)
  
• 7 sets moisture wicking long underwear. (Seriously, great investment, don't leave the house without it.)
  
• 7 long sleeve tees/turtle necks.
• 2 hooded sweatshirts (One to wash, one to wear).
  
• 1 quilted vest.
• 1 insulated jacket.
• 1 uninsulated, hooded, waterproof rain/wind protective coat (AKA a shell).
  
• 5 pairs fleece lined riding tights.
• 2 pairs jeans/cargos/windpants for non riding days.
• 1 pair uninsulated waterproof rain/wind protective over pants.
• 1 set sweatpants & sweatshirt. (Stashed in car or bottom of tack trunk for the inevitable "I didn't know I could get this filthy/soaked" moments we all run into occasionally.)
  
• 2 pairs inexpensive thin knit gloves. (AKA magic gloves; great alone for grooming/tacking, or as additional warmth under work gloves.)
• 1 pair insulated work gloves.
  
• 1 pair fleece lined riding gloves. (I'm not big on the super insulated ones. Too much interference with my rein aids.)
  
• 1 pair fingerless knit/fleece gloves. (Great over riding gloves or magic gloves for extra insulation without loss of finger mobility on really frosty days.)
  
• 1 knit/fleece headbands or beanies.
• 2 bandanas. (Tied over hair help prevent helmet/hat/windblown hair and add lightweight head/ear insulation.)
  
• 1 knit/fleece neck gaiter/balaclava.
  
• 1 pair insulated, waterproof tall riding boots.
• 1 pair absolutely waterproof uninsulated tall rubber muck boots. (AKA wellies. Uninsulated ones are just as waterproof, cheaper, and give you flexibility for use during warmer months.)
• 1 pair fleece/quilted liners for tall rubber muck boots.
• 1 pair fleece/heat reflecting insoles for tall rubber muck boots.
• Good schooling helmet...of course safety comes first.
• Metal super grippy "cheese grater" style stirrup pads. (Okay, not really a wardrobe item, but rubber ones get slick when boots get muddy. These pads don't, and I prefer to not have to chase my stirrups around all winter.)
  

The Grooming Challenge That Is Mud

The good news is the stifling heat and insect swarms are over. The bad news is the mud is coming, and the temperatures are falling. Some ideas on tackling mud:

• Seasonal Grooming Tools My go to tools for mud removal: a metal curry (shedding ring), a pair of jelly scrubbers (one for each hand), and a long bristled flick brush. Once the mud dries I use a metal curry to scrape it from the hair of the horse's neck and body, then I'll put a jelly scrubber on each hand and rub the mud off face (smaller soft nub side) and legs (larger nub side). It is amazing how fast it goes when you can get both hands after it. Then a flick brush makes quick work of getting all the dusty remains off your horse.
  
• Tail Protection Keep that lovely tail either in a bag or a mud knot to keep the mud from turning it into a mudsicle.
• Trim Those Feathers Unless your horse's breed requires feathers to be preserved, you'll have much better luck keeping his legs clean and dry if you keep them trimmed short.
  
• Buy A Box of Rags Auto parts or home improvement stores will often have boxes of around 50 small, single layer terrycloth towels. These are affordable and are great for a million barn related chores, including scrubbing off mud. They are meant to be used and tossed, but can be washed a couple times to get more use out of them.
• Come Up With A Hot Water Source Sometimes there just really isn't a good substitute for even a small bucket of hot water. If you aren't one of the lucky few that have hot running water in the barn, try an immersion heater, or my favorite trick and old coffee pot. This was one of the coolest things anyone ever taught me. A twelve cup coffee pot can be purchased new or used quite cheaply. All you have to do is fill the resevoir with water and run it as you would if you were making coffee, but without the filter or grounds. It will heat the water hotter and faster than most immersion heaters. I've found that one full pot is ready in about 20 minutes and can be mixed half and half with cold tap water in an 8qt bucket to make just enough nice warm bath water to scrub off muddy legs. The coffee pot trick also works nicely for hot winter bran mashes.
  

To Clip Or Not To Clip...That Is The Question

In a few short weeks our horses will begin to get fuzzy as winter coats start to come in. We will all have the inevitable decision to make: to clip or to let it grow, and if we decide to clip and/or trim how much will we take off?

The answers to these questions will differ from horse to horse and rider to rider. A clipped horse will be less likely to sweat profusely, and what sweating he does do will dry more rapidly. Strategic trimming can also help his tack fit better, keep him cleaner, and possibly avoid skin conditions caused by the mud associated with the late fall and early spring. However an unclipped and untrimmed horse will be perfectly happy with no further protection than a good run in shed to keep the snow off and blunt the worst of the icy blasts. A clipped horse may need to be brought indoors at night and during stormy weather or cold snaps and will probably require round the clock blanketing of one kind or another. So it is all about finding the ideal balance for you and your horse.

Unless you plan to put your horse out to pasture for most of the winter and work him infrequently and not to the point where he will sweat you will probably need to do some clipping. On the other hand, unless you plan to train hard for more than an hour a day seven days a week and live in a fairly moderate climate you are unlikely to need to pull off a drastic clipping job. Most horse's winter time schedules fall somewhere in the middle. Trace clips and blanket clips often fit the bill well for these horses.

A true blanket clip includes clipping the horse's head, neck, shoulders and belly leaving a large patch over the back and haunches in the shape of an exercise or quarter sheet and the legs unclipped. Often the lower legs are also trimmed slightly to help keep them clean.

A trace clip, originally used for carriage horses traditionally includes clipping the head, and the lower half of the neck and body including the belly. Again, often the legs are trimmed to help with cleanliness. I like the additional coverage in this clip to the muscles of the neck and shoulder that are not protected by a blanket clip.

I've also often seen a modified low trace clip that only clips a narrow (4-6") path just under the jaw and down the underside of the neck, the front of the chest, between the front legs, and a wider (12-18") path down the belly. These are the areas that get the hottest the fastest, so it is a functional minimalist clip for horses that spend a great deal of time outside and will work sporadically and lightly through the winter. Even if you do not clip, you may choose to trim for many reasons. For example, trimming a bridle path and the longest whiskers under your horse's throat will help his bridle fit better. Trimming his feathers can help keep his lower legs clean and dry.

Whatever you choose to do, try these three great clipping and trimming tips:

1) Start with clean clippers and sharp blades. When was the last time the blades were sharpened? When was the last time you took the blades off and brushed all the sneaky hidden hairs out of the clippers themselves? Dull blades and hair choked motors will cause horse irritating noise, uneven (ugly) cutting, clippers that overheat and burn within minutes, and undue wear on your clippers.

2) Spray lubricants are great, but they don't remove hair buildup effectively. One of the best tips I ever got was to keep an old coffee can or sturdy plastic pan of liquid blade wash within arm's reach. Immerse the blades only while the clippers are still running when your clippers begin to get warm or between sections of the clip. This is the most efficient way to avoid hair build-up and cool your blades.

3) No mater how mad your clipping skills are, don't forget to draw out your clip with chalk (or charcoal on a grey horse) first. The last thing you want is a horribly lopsided clipping job. I've gotten lazy and made this mistake myself. The old adage "measure twice cut once" is appropriate here. Make sure your horse is standing square on level ground and then check your lines carefully from all angles before you start cutting and you're much less likely to have "fixing" to do later, which is aggravating for both you and your horse.

Fall Is Here, Winter Is Coming, Time To Think About Blankets

We've survived another year of bugs, heat, and general summer misery. We're into cooler weather now which is so much nicer for our horses and ourselves. It also means that winter is coming before too long, so now is the time to prepare. One item on the fall to do list of most horse owners is a thorough inventory of our horses' winter wardrobes.

Our first concern is if we have all the necessary pieces available. What is necessary differs from horse to horse and climate to climate. If you live somewhere warm you may need nothing but a turnout sheet for rainy days. If you live somewhere very cold, you'll probably want lots of insulation. If your horse isn't clipped he may not need any blanketing at all if he has access to good shelter. On the other hand, if you plan to clip him extensively he will need coverage. My dream wardrobe for a horse living in a moderately cold climate, with a substantial clipping job and with regular turnout year round? Lots of layers. I stay more comfortable with a wardrobe of layers, I know my horses will as well. Rather than buy a heavy turnout blanket I would prefer to buy 4-6 lighter blankets.

1. A waterproof breathable turnout sheet. This is your outer most layer. It is easy to hose clean when it gets dirty, will keep your horse clean and his under layers dry and warm.
   
2. A quilted stable blanket (weight depending on climate and how extensively your horse will be clipped). This is your insulating middle layer. These are a pain to wash, but if you keep it sandwiched between the turnout sheet and a fleece or knit liner you probably won't need to launder it at all this winter.
3. At least 1 polar fleece cooler/liner, though I prefer to have 2-3 (one to wear and one to air or launder). These are your base layer next to your horses' skin. On warmer days these will be insulation enough under the turnout sheet. On colder days they keep your quilted blanket clean and add additional warmth. They also double as your cooler after exercise or a hot towel bath. The best part about these as a base layer is that they wash easily and dry quickly. Keeping liners clean and dry is the best thing we can do to prevent skin and coat issues from blanketing.
   
4. At least 1 knit anti-sweat sheet/liner, again I would prefer to have 2-3. These are another base layer. They offer less warmth but better moisture wicking and breathability than the fleece. They can be used directly under the turnout sheet for wet spring or fall days. For turnout this may be preferable to the fleece because it will help dry a horse who has been running around playing. On a really cold day you can put one under the other three layers to trap additional warm air next to your horse's skin. Again they can be used as a lightweight cooler after exercise or a bath. In really cold weather you can progressively cool out your horse by first covering him with an anti-sweat, then as he continues to cool you can put a fleece one over it. Like the fleece ones these are easy to wash, which helps keep our horses' skin happy.

After we've collected everything we need to of course make sure that it is clean, in good repair, and fits properly. Ideally we took care of all of this last spring before we put things away for the summer. But for those of us who procrastinated...we're running out of time and need to get a move on.