Valuable Horsemanship Skill, Invaluable Life Skill

I was flipping through my stack of horse magazines today trying to whittle down what I wanted to file away and what could be recycled. One article that made it into the "to be filed" pile was worthy of sharing.

In an article entitled "Recipe for a Riding Horse" written by Bob Orton for the January 2012 issue of Dressage Today Mr. Orton discusses his method for taking a completely green three year old from pasture to respectable training level test in three months. While many would prefer to stretch out such a project over 6 months to a year, the article's advice provides a nice guideline for priorities and methodology. The gems for all riders no matter what age, level, or discipline are what he calls his golden rules:

1) Be black and white about the behavior you expect.
2) Never correct or discipline your horse with anger.
3) Keep things as simple as possible and always set your horse up for success.

They seem simple but how often have we all had occasional lapses with one or more of these? How often have we seen other horse people forget these? Yet in these three things there are so many critical lessons to be learned in horsemanship. Heck, in life. These same ideas are pretty much what the Super Nanny and the Dog Whisperer keep telling people.

Haven't we all experienced frustration in dealing with someone who gives us vague or conflicting directions or requests, then gets mad when we didn't do what they wanted us to? We don't like it, why do we think our horse's don't mind?

Sometimes riding doesn't go as planned. We've all been angry at a horse we've ridden at some point. Many of us can look back with shame and regret on at least one incident where we yelled, spurred, or popped that whip a bit harder then was strictly necessary. Outside of the barn, how often have we said something we didn't mean to someone we care about because we were angry?

How much better would our world be for people and horses if we would all work harder to create clear, simple, reasonable expectations? What if when a horse or another human did something contrary to those expectations we were to take a deep breath and instead find a response that helps to correct the situation rather than simply venting our frustration? Mr. Orton's golden rules could be the most valuable lesson horses have to teach us.

For those of us who teach riding, sometimes we get hung up on the mechanics of riding and forget that even problems encountered provide a valuable learning experience. How many times have we had a horse and rider stuck on something. The student can't figure out how to communicate what they want effectively. The horse and rider are frustrated. The more frustrated the rider becomes the angrier and less reasonable they become. The more frustrated the horse becomes, the more they resist. As teachers what do we do? Do we get on the horse ourselves and attempt to fix it? Do we just throw our hands in the air, tell our student they'll get it in time and call it a day before someone gets hurt?

I wonder if the better path is to use such moments as an opportunity to teach the student the golden rules. How to take a deep breath, talk through their frustration and analyze what has gone wrong. This takes time, and patience, and it could mean the lesson plan goes out the window. But what a valuable example to plant for even a very young beginning student that if things are going wrong, stop, breathe and reassess before you act. If we can teach our students that, we can teach them not just a valuable horsemanship lesson, we can teach them a valuable life lesson.

Top 10 Horse Books

I have a confession to make. I'm a bit of a bibliophile. Particularly when it comes to horse books. My equestrian library takes up most of an entire shelving unit by itself, and there are always more I'd like. I was talking to another bibliophile last week, and she mentioned that her husband marveling at her ever expanding library had asked her the question: "If you were only allowed to have ten books, which ones would they be?" This made me think about my own library and what books, equestrian or otherwise I value most. If I had to choose just 10 equestrian books that I think every horse owner and/or rider should own, my selections would be as follows:

1. United States Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship - Basics for Beginners D Level by Susan E. Harris (Great general riding and horsemanship reference.)
   
2. United States Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship - Intermediate Horsemanship C Level by Susan E. Harris (Great general riding and horsemanship reference.)
   
3. United States Pony Club Manual of Horsemanship - Advanced Horsemanship B/HA/A Levels by Susan E. Harris (Great general riding and horsemanship reference.)
   
4. The Official Horse Breeds Standards Guide: The Complete Guide to the Standards of All North American Equine Breed Associations by Fran Lynghaug (Photos, history, standards and association contacts for all breeds. Also has nice general conformation, color and markings information in the back.)
   
5. Horse Sense for People: The Man Who Listens to Horses Talks to People by Monty Roberts (Great general philosophy on horse behavior and training.)
   
6. A Gymnastic Riding System Using Body, Mind and Spirit: Progressive Training for Rider and Horse by Betsy Steiner (Because the classical training pyramid really doesn't have to be confusing.)
   
7. Centered Riding by Sally Swift (Because half of riding happens in your head.)
   
8. Hands on Horse Care by Karen Hayes (Best first aid and health care book I've seen. Great flow charts help even beginners decide when and if a vet is needed and what to do in the meantime.)
9. The USDF Guide to Dressage by Jennifer O. Bryant (Good guide to the history, theory and basics of my favorite equestrian sport.)
10. Bombproof Your Horse: Teach Your Horse To Be Confident, Obediant, and Safe, No Matter What You Encounter by Rick Pelicano (Because when I entrust my life to a 1200 lb animal, I'd prefer it not to have full blown panic attacks over say the half rotted sand bag in the middle of the trail, or the naive small child that is playing with the cape of his batman Halloween costume in the parking lot next to the arena.)

What would make your top 10 list?

Spring is Springing: Time To Get Moving

With the short days, cold, snow, icy roads, break from show season and busy holiday season, many of us put our equine activities on the back burner during the winter. But despite the fact that it snowed in my area this morning the tulips and daffodils are popping up and it is time to start getting back into the swing of things. There is a great deal of cleaning and prevention to be done but here's where I'll start:

1. Tackle the shedding and muddy horses. Time to find the shedding blade, jelly scrubbers and flick brush that migrated to the bottom of my tack trunk since last fall. The Grooming Challenge That Is Mud for my thoughts on how to start tackling that.
2. Clean out the tack trunk and tack room. While I'm rummaging to find that second jelly scrubber I might as well get to the bottom of the tack trunk. While I'm doing that I might as well pull the trunk away from the wall and give the tack room a good sweeping. I'll put away what I need, create a pile to be donated/tossed, and a pile that needs washing or repairs.
3. Check the veterinary and grooming supplies. Invariably at least one thing is almost gone, past its expiration date, or has disappeared. Time to restock all my staples before I am in need of them.
   
4. Get the wash and repair pile taken care of. Finally getting around to cleaning and conditioning neglected tack and boots is one of my spring cleaning chores. I tend to be horribly lazy about it, but I figure if they only see a rag once a year it might as well be in the spring. The laundry may have to wait for late spring so that I can make one trip to the laundromat to wash all the blankets, saddle pads, and wraps.
5. Spring clean the stalls. Feeders and waterers scrubbed, floor stripped, leveled and deoderized, hardware replaced/repaired/adjusted/lubricated. We're good to go for another year.
6. Prevent hoof cracks, thrush and scratches. Mud this time of year creates the perfect enviroment for three generally mild but extremely annoying horse ailments. One is thrush, another is heel scratches and the last is hoof cracks. Some horses are more prone than others, but ideally a daily routine of picking out feet, hosing mud off legs and hooves, throughly towel drying legs and hooves and applying hoof dressing to the coronary band only, powder or barrier ointment to the legs, and if thrush is detected a thrush remedy to the hooves will help eliminate the problem.
7. Start early on summer bug control. Now is the time to get that manure pile off the property, and start hanging up traps or releasing fly parasites. From personal experience I can tell you that you will never catch up if you wait until you already have a big fly problem.
8. Schedule vaccines and fecal egg counts with your veterinarian. Summer brings bugs, shows, and trail rides, all of which can expose your horse to pathogens. Time to make sure he's vaccinated and prepared. Deworming is also a good idea right now, but because of all the resistance being built up by the worms it is not a good idea to deworm without a high fecal egg count. A fecal egg count is a test that determines how heavily infested with internal parasites your horse is. If your horse has a low count, he doesn't need to be dewormed, if he does have a high count, he should be dewormed.
9. Return to exercise slowly. If you or your horse haven't been exercising as much as you'd like over the winter, be careful as you return to it in the summer. It is easy to get overly enthusiastic and do more than you should. You and your horse both need time to rebuild strength and endurance. If you push it the results can be injury for both you and your horse, so please be safe and go slowly.
10. Mind the lush grass and early hay. We all know this one, but it bears repeating. Your horse wants the lush grass, you want to watch him enjoy it, but be careful because the high carbohydrate content of early spring grass, or hay made from it for that matter (first cutting) can trigger founder or colic in sensitive horses, so make all dietary changes slowly.
    

The Bridle Wars Part 3: Understanding Mouthpieces

The other important part to understanding bit action is understanding how the mouthpiece of a bit will function. There is one relatively reliable rule: with the possible exception of horses with low palates, the thinner the mouthpiece the more severe the bit's action. This is because the pressure will be concentrated over a smaller area.

Please note that this post is restricted to solid smooth metal bits with no twists or coatings. Twists or chains make for a severe bit, one that I feel is more likely to be abusive than to prove helpful. Rubber bits and rubber coatings have the opposite effect and make a bit softer and more forgiving. I am not a fan of these, (see Part 1: Not A Happy Mouth) though they do potentially have their uses.

There are many different mouthpieces even given our restrictions, but as a general rule we'll break it into four types: solid (aka mullen mouthed), ported, single jointed, and double jointed.

A solid mouthed bit will apply the most pressure to the horse's tongue. As a general rule a solid mouthed bit is a mild bit. It is a good option for horses that have a low pallet as there is no way this bit can poke the horse in the roof of the mouth, an action that can cause the horse to throw his head in the air. There are however horses that dislike tongue pressure and will fight a bits of this style.

A ported mouthpiece is less common on snaffle bits, and more common on leverage bits. A ported mouthpiece will apply less pressure to the horse's tongue and more to the bars of the mouth. This can be helpful for a horse that resents tongue pressure. This also makes the bit more severe because the pressure is being concentrated in a smaller area. The higher the port the more pressure is transfered, and the more severe the bit. A bit with a very high port can also create pressure to the palate (roof of the mouth) as the bit rotates. As mentioned above, this may not be desirable. There is an additional issue with the curb chain leverage action of many ported bits that rather than manifesting palate pressure as head tossing, the horse will learn to break unnaturally at the poll to minimize pressure from both the port and the curb chain. This can result in a horse that carries himself behind the bit, or false carriage in which the horse's head set gives the illusion that the horse is on the bit and carrying himself, when in reality his body may be all over the place. Prolonged work in such a frame can create poor muscle development, and undesirable balance.

A single jointed mouthpiece relieves some of the tongue pressure of a solid mouth, and can apply more pressure to the bars of the mouth. It is generally a mild bit and is widely available in all snaffle varieties. The one caveat with this style of bit is that it can create a severe pressure point on the palate. In horses with a low palate, this may result in head tossing.

A double jointed mouthpiece is generally considered the mildest bit as it most evenly distributes the pressure of the bit across the horse's jaw. It also minimizes the likelihood of pressure points on the palate. However, this type of mouthpiece also adds an additional variable. The center link is highly variable. As a general rule, the larger and smoother the center link, the milder the bit. The sharper or smaller the middle link, the more severe the bit. For example, a bit with a big round oval style center (as pictured at left) is likely to be very mild, a french link with a small center link less so, and a dr. bristol with a center plate set on edge (so that in use the narrow edge of the center link puts severe pressure on the tongue) is much more severe. So think carefully about how the center link will function before you make any judgments about the way the bit will function.

The Bridle Wars Part 2: Understanding Leverage

There are a million bits out there, so many that the latest Dover catalog devotes a full 7 pages to them, and Dover by no means carries every bit in existence. However, there is a trick to understanding the function of every one of those bits. Most bits are a combination of one of a handful of ring designs and one of a handful of mouthpiece designs. Understand those two handfuls and you can make a pretty good guess at what any bit will do. In this post I discuss ring design and its impact on leverage.

When we refer to leverage with regards to bit design we usually are referring to the application of pressure to the bars of the horse's mouth, the horse's poll, and if a curb chain is used, to the horse's chin. The more pressure in more places, the more force a rider can exert to stop, collect, or otherwise adjust a horse's forward movement. How much pressure is exerted is a function of how far apart the minimum distance is between the mouthpiece (Point C) and the cheek piece (Point A) and how far apart the minimum distance is between the mouthpiece (Point C) and the rein (Point B).

In the diagram above with a loose ring snaffle there are no fixed points (all three points can rotate freely around the ring) therefore the minimum distance in theory could be zero. As a result a loose ring gives the least amount of leverage of all bit designs. In an eggbutt, dee ring, or full cheek design the mouthpiece is fixed while the cheek piece and rein can move. This offers very slightly more leverage, but not enough that most riders would notice a difference in the horse's response. So why do we bother with eggbutts, dee rings or full cheeks?

The primary advantage of an eggbutt is purely that it cannot pinch the corners of the horse's mouth, which can be a problem with a loose ring, particularly if the bit is either the incorrect width or adjusted too high or too low in the horse's mouth. Full cheek snaffles were created to apply pressure on the outside cheek when the inside rein recieves pressure. This can be an advantage for a green or stubborn horse. Dee ring snaffles also apply pressure to the outside cheek, but because the ends are connected they cannot get hung up on anything. This makes them safer when riding with others or riding at speed.

But what if we want more pressure than a loose ring, eggbutt, dee ring, or full cheek will provide? To increase the pressure we must fix additional points. An unusual bevel ring fixes the cheek piece and the rein and allows the mouthpiece some limited movement. As the rein is tightened in the rider's hand, backward pressure is applied to the horse's mouth, and if sufficient pressure is applied to the rein to rotate the ring downward pressure will then be applied to the horse's poll. This makes the bevel an intermediary bit between the previous four types discussed and the increased leverage bits to follow. Still need more pressure?

The baucher fixes the mouthpiece and the cheek piece and leaves the rein with a small degree of movement. The greater fixed distance between the mouthpiece and cheek piece creates simultaneous backward pressure upon the horse's mouth, and downward and slightly forward pressure on the horse's poll. This combination of leverage is useful in stopping a horse who tends to pull, or in creating collection.

The elevator bit, sometimes seen with only one lower ring and called a show jumping bit is similar to the bevel in that the cheek piece and rein are both fixed and the mouthpiece has some limited motion. It's action is similar as well. Pressure is primarily upon the horse's mouth if applied lightly, if increased pressure is applied, the pressure is also applied to the horse's poll. However especially if the lowest ring is used the elevator will apply many times the pressure of the bevel because the distance between the cheek piece and the mouthpiece and the mouthpiece and the rein are much greater. A longer lever = more pressure. A variation on the elevator bit is the wonder bit.

What if we want even more leverage? The introduction of a curb chain running under the horse's chin applies pressure in a third place. In a kimberwicke the pressure is the least, similar in action to that of a baucher with the addition of upward and forward pressure on the chin when the rein is tightened. A weymouth has much greater pressure, similar in action to an elevator with the addition of upward and forward pressure on the curb chain.

It should be noted here that weymouths because of their severe pressure should never be used as a single bit. They are for use in double bridles along side a bridoon (a thin mouthed loose ring). As part of a double bridle the primary action is that of the bridoon with the weymouth being used to enhance the riders ability to collect the horse.

A pelham is something of a two in one bit intended to mimic the action of a double bridle when rigged with two sets of reins, one attached to the large ring, one to the lower ring. If used with one rein attached to the large ring its action is similar to a kimberwicke, if that single rein was attached to the lower ring (not recommended) its action would be similar to the weymouth. It can also be used as a kind of false double bridle by connecting the reins to converter straps that buckle onto the large and lower rings, causing the single set of reins to act upon both sets of reins. (See image at right.) The action of such an arrangement would be similar to that of a kimberwick, although with greater leverage.

The Bridle Wars Part 1: Not A Happy Mouth

A personal annoyance of mine lately has been happy mouth bits. There is nothing inherently wrong with these bits, and I'm sure they have been a great innovation for some horses. But I think they are being over used. I dislike happy mouths because most horses I've ridden wearing them lean on them and/or fail to yield to them. I know, silly me, I like to have the brakes installed on all horses I ride.

Many people seem to get happy mouth bits because their horse is green and/or stiff in the jaw and neck. They are hoping that this "milder" bit will encourage the horse to relax and work the bit. Perhaps, but I have two questions for them: if the horse reacts by taking stronger contact is he relaxing or simply finding a new point to brace against? Furthermore, if your horse is stiff in the jaw and neck is it the problem or a symptom of something else? Is he perhaps lacking strength, balance and/or suppleness in his back and haunches that makes him stiff in the bridle? Mild is good, but milder is not always better. Bits are not supposed to be toys, they are a communication tool and horses should be taught to respect them. A horse taught to respect a basic snaffle early in life will be much less likely to be over bitted later in life.

Safe Stabling On A Shoestring

I was talking to a non-horsey person a couple weeks ago, and they commented that their property is zoned for horses and that if building a barn wasn't so expensive they would love to get a pony for their kids. As we all know, building a barn would be only the beginning of the slippery financial slope of horse ownership. Between that and the fact that no one in the family has any horse experience I cautioned her against the backyard pony dream.

I thought back to a few years ago when someone mentioned their neighbor's crazy plan to keep a horse in a 8'x10' Tuff Shed they'd gotten at Home Depot. Then I thought about all the fancy barns I'd seen in the past. Ones that were certainly beautiful, but likely cost a significant amount more than they needed to. So, I got to thinking about what was the minimum for building a safe and effective shelter for a backyard horse? I did some internet searches (what did we do before Google?) and put together something I think would be both affordable and safe for the horse.

Note: I have not worked with barns2go nor have I seen any of their products in person. The products sound solid from the description given on the company's website. They are also one of the few companies that give prices on their website. There are many other companies that would be my preference if I were to go ahead and build because of reputation and location, but for the purposes of this post I used the barns2go products.

Materials:

• All Steel Premier Shed Row Barn -http://barns2go.com/product_info.php?cPath=88_100&products_id=457 $2,295
• 4 Premium Horse Corral Panels 12 Foot Length - http://barns2go.com/product_info.php?cPath=83&products_id=325 $580
• 1 Premium Horse Corral Combo Panel Gate 12 Foot Length, 6 Foot Height http://barns2go.com/product_info.php?cPath=83&products_id=327 $370
• 6 Dyno Extreme Duty Interlocking EVA Stall Mats http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft1_equine_supplies-ft1_equine_flooring_wall;pg108730.html $420
• 2 15 Gallon Water Troughs (1 as a Feeder, 1 as a Waterer) - http://www.smartpakequine.com/ProductClass.aspx?productclassid=8031&cm_vc=Search $56

What you end up with is a 12x12 covered stall (or run in if you leave the door open) with a 24'x12' attached run (because I think all horses should have at least a little room to stretch their legs and enjoy the fresh air and sunshine). There would be additional costs for shipping, ground prep, additional hardware, and construction that would vary depending upon location and how much you have and can do yourself. But total cost of all of the above comes to $3,721.

Most horses cost many times this, and vet bills from poorly constructed stabling and corrals can be thousands of dollars an incident. Safe fencing and shelter is a requirement for a healthy horse. That doesn't mean it has to be elaborate or overly expensive.

A Toast To The Mediocre Horse

I opened my mail today to find the February 2011 issue of Horse Illustrated. No, I'm not going to rant about them sending out the February issue when we barely started January, that is for another blog entirely.

Instead what struck me was the likely unintended contrast between the cover story "Warmblood Superstars of the World Equestrian Games" (complete with drool worthy rip out poster of Totilas) and the last page story of "Just George" about a thoroughly unremarkably average horse of heavier mixed breeding with a laid back attitude and determination to just carry on whatever his rider might throw at him.

It struck me after reading both articles how often as horse people we wish we had the money to get the gorgeous blue blooded warmblood. There is nothing inherently anymore wrong with that than all the car lovers who would give their right arms to drive a Ferrari around for a day. The Ferarri like the warmblood might be nice, but in making a long term investment, many of us would be better served by the average sedan.

All of us at one point or another have learned to ride on a horse like George. Those of us who teach know these horses are worth their weight in gold for teaching beginners. A horse who's default speed is 0, and who's entire attitude in life is "Keep Calm and Carry On" may not win any ribbons, and will try our patience at times. But to give a beginner the freedom to ride independently without the danger that would accompany a more responsive or athletic mount is what we value most.

Anyone who has ever worked with a young or otherwise green horse probably spent a lot of time borrowing "Georges" as trailer buddies, trail companions, or turnout supervisors. These mediocre horses are often the dependable ones who will babysit the reckless young kid who wants to be a cowboy and has zero interest in actually learning to ride properly, will show the young show horse that squirrels, trees, and puddles do not eat horses, and still find time to nudge your shoulder as if to say: "the sun is still shining, you're still breathing, so stop worrying already."

So, here's to the Georges of the world. May we always have at least one in our lives at every turn, and may we never forget their boringly reliable contributions.

The Stable Savvy Bran Mash

There's been a great deal of debate on bran mashes. Many people feed them weekly, some just because they like spoiling their horses, others claim benefits for colic prone horses, still others say bran mashes are at best unnecessary and at worst potentially harmful.

Personally I would tend to agree with all of the above in part. Bran mashes should never be fed to young horses or pregnant/nursing mares. The phosphorus content is far too high and could potentially cause skeletal issues. But for all other horses a weekly mash is far from dangerous. Current research has dis-proven bran mashes having any laxative effect on horses, however they are an excellent way to get additional fluid into a horse, which may be beneficial to a horse who tends to colic and certainly won't hurt anything. In addition, I don't know about you, but I love to spoil and pamper horses, and most clearly love mashes.

That said, my favorite way to make bran mash:

1 1/2 Pound Bran (Approximately 3 Quarts)
1/2 Pound Rolled Oats (Approximately 1 Quart)
1 Pound Crimped Corn (Approximately 1 Quart)
1/2 Cup Olive Oil
1 Cup Molasses
1 Tablespoon Sea Salt
1 Teaspoon Lite Salt (Potassium Based)
1 Teaspoon Epsom Salt (Magnesium Based)
2 Carrots Grated/Chopped
1 Apple Grated/Chopped
Boiling Water

Mix all ingredients other than the apple and carrots together with just enough hot water to make a dough like consistency. Mix in apple and carrots once other ingredients and well mixed. If your horse gets a daily grain ration you will need to decrease your horse's normal grain ration by approximately 1-3 pounds on the day this mash is fed depending upon how rich his normal ration is.

Defending the Art of Riding

I was having a conversation with a non-horsey acquaintance a few days ago about riding. His daughter, who is seven is horse crazy and is hoping Santa will bring her a pony. This is not likely to happen, but his wife had been thinking about maybe looking into a horseback riding summer camp next summer or maybe some lessons. My acquaintance thinks the idea of taking riding lessons is absolutely ridiculous. After all he says "I've been on a horse, who needs lessons to sit on a horse?"

While I will allow that with the exception of some therapeutic situations anyone can sit on a horse and be packed around at a walk and think they are pretty hot stuff, I also know that the kind of riding practice and the standard to which I aspire requires far more than simply sitting there like you would upon a sofa.

As I tried to explain to the gentleman with whom I was having this discussion, riding well is an art something akin to the performance of a ballerina. Yes anyone can put on tights and a tutu and go skipping about the floor. Some will probably be naturally talented enough to avoid seriously embarrassing themselves; but professional dancers have spent many years in lessons and countless hours of practice perfecting the skills necessary to execute the awe inspiring display of athleticism and artistry that is witnessed in a professional ballet company.

I referred him to several online videos and asked him to see what he thought about the need for lessons after he witnessed not just someone sitting on a horse, but someone riding well. The videos I gave him are as follows:

WEG 2006 Dressage Freestyle - Andreas Helgstrand
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKQgTiqhPbw&feature=player_detailpage

WEG 2010 Dressage Freestyle - Edward Gal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8zWMDb5pQk&feature=player_detailpage

Rolex 2007 Cross Country - Karen O'Conner
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=l1eiBcINTF4

Freestyle Bareback & Bridle Free Reining - Stacy Westfall
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=acCFvBubQ-Q

Spanish Riding School
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Pn6Jmqs9IHQ

Polo Match
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Mb0ioBw6Yds

WEG 2010 Jumping Finals - Hickstead (horse, various riders)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=oD13PLawec8

My question for you is this: have you had similar discussions with non-horse people? Do you have other videos that are your favorite "this is what riding really is" videos? How else have you defended the art of riding?

How Much Does History Matter?

I had a conversation a while back with someone about the past behavioral history of a particular horse. It made me think about how much history should matter when we decide what horses are appropriate for what riders and what settings.

Behavioral history is often a deciding factor in what use a particular horse is put to. In some cases it can be the difference between a horse who removed from their herd to be sold or unfortunately even abandoned or euthanized. We assume that if a horse has demonstrated negative or dangerous behavior that they will reliably demonstrate similar behaviors again. This makes good logical sense, but I think we often forget to take into account the personalities and motivations of the horse involved and the particulars of the situations in which the previously demonstrated unwanted behavior occurred.

Horses are intelligent creatures who have their own personalities, motivations and ideas. Work with enough horses and eventually you will find a few that don't like you and you don't like them. These horses will go out of their way to test your limits, and only do as you ask begrudgingly at best. Yet they may be another person's favorite horse. Likewise you will probably find a few horses that you work exceptionally well with. Horses that will give you 125%, but may not give someone else the time of day. Sometimes I think we end up writing off horses as having "behavioral problems" when they simply have a personality conflict with a particular rider or handler.

Or perhaps the environment is to blame. Some horses due to past experiences or personality quirks are simply not reliable in a given setting. I knew one mare that hated arena work and would buck, kick, lie down and roll, bite and generally make life difficult for anyone who took her into an arena. Anyone who saw her only in an arena setting would likely label her as "dangerous or advanced rider only." But she was a completely different horse on the trail. She quickly became everyone's favorite when it came time to take the newbie riders out on the trail. She never spooked, never bolted, would do everything she was asked, and never showed the smallest sign of being barn sour or herd bound. Likewise I knew a fabulous lesson horse who was an angel in any arena environment. He was as bombproof as they come and perfectly content to go nicely along even for a beginning rider. He was the kind of horse that took care of his rider and made his rider look far more capable than they were. Take him out on the trail however, and you were in for a nightmare. He would jig the whole way out and back, panic and bolt for no apparent reason, and call for the other horses constantly even if half the rest of the herd including his best friends were already right beside him. If you had only seen him on the trail you might call him "spooky" or "nervous" but he only demonstrated that behavior on the trail.

My point is that just because a horse has bitten, kicked, or dumped someone in the past doesn't necessarily mean that every interaction they have with humans is doomed to end badly. Horses are by their very nature dangerous to be around. We minimize those dangers through careful management and mindfulness of each horse's individual personality and limits. Writing off the use of a particular horse due to a handful of bad experiences, half of which you may not know all of the particulars about does not necessarily do anyone any favors. It may in fact deny the horse and future riders and handlers some very valuable experiences.

Joke: If Horses Could Change Lightbulbs

THOROUGHBRED: Who ME?? Do WHAT? I'm scared of light bulbs! I'm outta here!

ARABIAN: Someone else do it. It might get my silky mane dirty and besides, who's gonna read me the instructions?

QUARTER HORSE: Oh for Pete's Sake, give me the damn bulb and let's be done with it.

SHETLAND: Give it to me. I'll kill it and we won't have to worry about it anymore.

FRIESIAN: I would, but I can't see where I'm going from behind all this hair.

BELGIAN: Put the Shetland on my back, maybe he can reach it then.

WARMBLOOD: Doesn't anyone realize that I was sold for $75K as a yearling, but only because my hocks are bad, otherwise I would be worth $100K? I am NOT changing lightbulbs. I will delegate the changing of the lightbulb to my personal groom after he finishes shampooing my mane and cleaning my saddle.

MORGAN: Me! Me! Me! Pleeease let me! I wanna do it! I'm gonna do it! I know how, really I do! Just watch! I'll even rewire the barn afterward.

APPALOOSA: Ya'll are a bunch of losers. We don't need to change the lightbulb, I ain't scared of the dark. And someone make that damn Morgan stop jumping up and down before I double barrel him.

HAFLINGER: That thing I ate was a lightbulb?

MUSTANG: Lightbulb? Let’s go on a trail ride, instead. And camp. Out in the open like REAL horses.

LIPIZANNER: Hah, amateurs. I will change the lightbulb. Not only that, but I will do it while standing on my hind legs and balancing it on my nose, after which I will perform seven one tempis and a capriole. Can you do that? Huh? Huh? Didn’t think so.

MINIATURE: I bet you think I can’t do it just cause I’m small. You know what that is? It’s sizeism!

PAINT: Put all the lightbulbs in a pen, tell me which one you want, and my owner will bet you twenty bucks I can get it before the quarter horse.

POA: I’m not changing it. I’m the one who kicked the old one and broke it in the first place, remember? Now, excuse me, I have a grain room to break into.

PERCHERON: Guys? Um, guys? I hope you don’t mind, but while you were all arguing I went ahead and changed it. Then I changed all the other light bulbs in the barn so I don't have to hear you all whine about it for a while.

Top 10 Reasons I Am Thankful For Horses

Today is Thanksgiving and I have so many things to be truly thankful for, not the least of which is the horses in my life. So after watching David Letterman the other night (love his top 10 lists) I sat down and made a list of why I am so thankful for horses (in no particular order).

1. They constantly show us that it isn't how big you are on the outside, it is how big you are on the inside that counts. Yes, ponies can be very naughty and trying to one's patience; but they never cease to amaze me with the huge size of their personalities, their bravery, and their sheer determination.
2. They remind me to be present in each moment. To lay my worries at the barn door, and simply experience each moment with them. Horses have pasts and futures, and while they remember their pasts, and act to influence their immediate futures, they do not get stuck in either as we humans do. Horses simply are what they are in the present moment.
3. They inspire me to believe in the impossible even when the world gets me down. In those moments when I ride and the horse and I achieve perfect harmony, if only for a few moments, everything in the world becomes perfect, and it is entirely possible to fly.
4. They never lie, and they never manipulate. With horses, what you see is what you get. In a world full of people with endless agendas who will say and do anything to further those agendas it is refreshing to deal with creatures who will always be honest with you. That doesn't mean that you'll like what they think or "say," but at least you're never left trying to read between the lines.
5. They have the ability to heal wounds no human can. From many years of involvement in therapeutic horseback riding, hippotherapy, and equine assisted psych I have gathered probably a hundred stories of the awesome power horses have to heal. Whether it is a troubled teen who finally found the difference between agressiveness and assertiveness with a horse; the ten year old autistic child who had never spoken saying "horse" clear as a bell after a summer of riding lessons; or perhaps the child with spina bifida who could not stand or walk gaining the strength and balance to start doing so on the back of a horse; the stories are many and varied. One thing however is clear, horses simply by being horses have the ability to help heal what we humans have failed to.
6. Horses constantly teach us the meaning of patience. Trying to rush a horse through a learning experience is like trying to stop a tsunami. If you loose your temper you might as well go home, because you are likely to make things worse rather than better.
7. Horses judge based only on what really matters. They don't care if you are wearing perfectly polished dress boots, or a beat up pair of sneakers if you're a dependable leader and caretaker. They don't care if their pasture mates are shetland ponies or percherons or if they are bay, black, grey, or chestnut. As long as everyone can find their place in the heard and play by the rules, they are content.
8. I will never grow bored of the paradoxical nature of horses. They are incredibly strong and fast, but they are also amazingly graceful, and capable of great gentleness. They tend to be cautious, but can also exhibit great bravery under the right circumstances.
9. Horses don't understand love the way we do, but they understand something far more powerful: trust and respect. We don't know if a horse loves their human, or if that would be sufficient motivation for them to do as the human asked. But we do know that if you gain a horse's trust and respect and give him the same and you will have a lifelong partner you can always depend upon.
10. Horses never think they are too old, too beautiful, too important, or too busy to play. Whether they go roll in the mud, see how far they can fling the nearest bucket, or race the gathering storm around the field, horses do what feels good. They don't get self conscious or inhibited about a little harmless fun. We humans could stand to learn something from them.
    

The Perfect Winter Equestrian Wardrobe

The weather is colder, and as I sit here typing this, it is raining outside. Time to start hauling all the winter clothes out of storage. My winter stuff is mostly layers. I tend to be one of those people who run hot and cold, so adjustability is always top on my list.

Several years ago I saw a list entitled something along the lines of "100 Must Have Items for the Perfect Wardrobe" in one of the fashion magazines...I want to say it was in Glamour but I may be wrong. Their list was all fine and good, but decidedly disfunctional for those of us who would rather be in the barn than anywhere else. In reality we all end up having two wardrobes, one for horse stuff, one for the rest of our lives. So, for kicks and giggles I put together my own versions of the list; one for fall/winter, one for spring/summer. So, for everyone's interest, my fall/winter list, based on the weather in Utah and being at the barn 7 days a week, riding 5 of those days on average (57 items for those counting).

• 14 pairs wool or other warm tall boot socks. (Extras are good in case of holes, boot leaks, etc.)
  
• 7 sets moisture wicking long underwear. (Seriously, great investment, don't leave the house without it.)
  
• 7 long sleeve tees/turtle necks.
• 2 hooded sweatshirts (One to wash, one to wear).
  
• 1 quilted vest.
• 1 insulated jacket.
• 1 uninsulated, hooded, waterproof rain/wind protective coat (AKA a shell).
  
• 5 pairs fleece lined riding tights.
• 2 pairs jeans/cargos/windpants for non riding days.
• 1 pair uninsulated waterproof rain/wind protective over pants.
• 1 set sweatpants & sweatshirt. (Stashed in car or bottom of tack trunk for the inevitable "I didn't know I could get this filthy/soaked" moments we all run into occasionally.)
  
• 2 pairs inexpensive thin knit gloves. (AKA magic gloves; great alone for grooming/tacking, or as additional warmth under work gloves.)
• 1 pair insulated work gloves.
  
• 1 pair fleece lined riding gloves. (I'm not big on the super insulated ones. Too much interference with my rein aids.)
  
• 1 pair fingerless knit/fleece gloves. (Great over riding gloves or magic gloves for extra insulation without loss of finger mobility on really frosty days.)
  
• 1 knit/fleece headbands or beanies.
• 2 bandanas. (Tied over hair help prevent helmet/hat/windblown hair and add lightweight head/ear insulation.)
  
• 1 knit/fleece neck gaiter/balaclava.
  
• 1 pair insulated, waterproof tall riding boots.
• 1 pair absolutely waterproof uninsulated tall rubber muck boots. (AKA wellies. Uninsulated ones are just as waterproof, cheaper, and give you flexibility for use during warmer months.)
• 1 pair fleece/quilted liners for tall rubber muck boots.
• 1 pair fleece/heat reflecting insoles for tall rubber muck boots.
• Good schooling helmet...of course safety comes first.
• Metal super grippy "cheese grater" style stirrup pads. (Okay, not really a wardrobe item, but rubber ones get slick when boots get muddy. These pads don't, and I prefer to not have to chase my stirrups around all winter.)
  

The Grooming Challenge That Is Mud

The good news is the stifling heat and insect swarms are over. The bad news is the mud is coming, and the temperatures are falling. Some ideas on tackling mud:

• Seasonal Grooming Tools My go to tools for mud removal: a metal curry (shedding ring), a pair of jelly scrubbers (one for each hand), and a long bristled flick brush. Once the mud dries I use a metal curry to scrape it from the hair of the horse's neck and body, then I'll put a jelly scrubber on each hand and rub the mud off face (smaller soft nub side) and legs (larger nub side). It is amazing how fast it goes when you can get both hands after it. Then a flick brush makes quick work of getting all the dusty remains off your horse.
  
• Tail Protection Keep that lovely tail either in a bag or a mud knot to keep the mud from turning it into a mudsicle.
• Trim Those Feathers Unless your horse's breed requires feathers to be preserved, you'll have much better luck keeping his legs clean and dry if you keep them trimmed short.
  
• Buy A Box of Rags Auto parts or home improvement stores will often have boxes of around 50 small, single layer terrycloth towels. These are affordable and are great for a million barn related chores, including scrubbing off mud. They are meant to be used and tossed, but can be washed a couple times to get more use out of them.
• Come Up With A Hot Water Source Sometimes there just really isn't a good substitute for even a small bucket of hot water. If you aren't one of the lucky few that have hot running water in the barn, try an immersion heater, or my favorite trick and old coffee pot. This was one of the coolest things anyone ever taught me. A twelve cup coffee pot can be purchased new or used quite cheaply. All you have to do is fill the resevoir with water and run it as you would if you were making coffee, but without the filter or grounds. It will heat the water hotter and faster than most immersion heaters. I've found that one full pot is ready in about 20 minutes and can be mixed half and half with cold tap water in an 8qt bucket to make just enough nice warm bath water to scrub off muddy legs. The coffee pot trick also works nicely for hot winter bran mashes.
  

To Clip Or Not To Clip...That Is The Question

In a few short weeks our horses will begin to get fuzzy as winter coats start to come in. We will all have the inevitable decision to make: to clip or to let it grow, and if we decide to clip and/or trim how much will we take off?

The answers to these questions will differ from horse to horse and rider to rider. A clipped horse will be less likely to sweat profusely, and what sweating he does do will dry more rapidly. Strategic trimming can also help his tack fit better, keep him cleaner, and possibly avoid skin conditions caused by the mud associated with the late fall and early spring. However an unclipped and untrimmed horse will be perfectly happy with no further protection than a good run in shed to keep the snow off and blunt the worst of the icy blasts. A clipped horse may need to be brought indoors at night and during stormy weather or cold snaps and will probably require round the clock blanketing of one kind or another. So it is all about finding the ideal balance for you and your horse.

Unless you plan to put your horse out to pasture for most of the winter and work him infrequently and not to the point where he will sweat you will probably need to do some clipping. On the other hand, unless you plan to train hard for more than an hour a day seven days a week and live in a fairly moderate climate you are unlikely to need to pull off a drastic clipping job. Most horse's winter time schedules fall somewhere in the middle. Trace clips and blanket clips often fit the bill well for these horses.

A true blanket clip includes clipping the horse's head, neck, shoulders and belly leaving a large patch over the back and haunches in the shape of an exercise or quarter sheet and the legs unclipped. Often the lower legs are also trimmed slightly to help keep them clean.

A trace clip, originally used for carriage horses traditionally includes clipping the head, and the lower half of the neck and body including the belly. Again, often the legs are trimmed to help with cleanliness. I like the additional coverage in this clip to the muscles of the neck and shoulder that are not protected by a blanket clip.

I've also often seen a modified low trace clip that only clips a narrow (4-6") path just under the jaw and down the underside of the neck, the front of the chest, between the front legs, and a wider (12-18") path down the belly. These are the areas that get the hottest the fastest, so it is a functional minimalist clip for horses that spend a great deal of time outside and will work sporadically and lightly through the winter. Even if you do not clip, you may choose to trim for many reasons. For example, trimming a bridle path and the longest whiskers under your horse's throat will help his bridle fit better. Trimming his feathers can help keep his lower legs clean and dry.

Whatever you choose to do, try these three great clipping and trimming tips:

1) Start with clean clippers and sharp blades. When was the last time the blades were sharpened? When was the last time you took the blades off and brushed all the sneaky hidden hairs out of the clippers themselves? Dull blades and hair choked motors will cause horse irritating noise, uneven (ugly) cutting, clippers that overheat and burn within minutes, and undue wear on your clippers.

2) Spray lubricants are great, but they don't remove hair buildup effectively. One of the best tips I ever got was to keep an old coffee can or sturdy plastic pan of liquid blade wash within arm's reach. Immerse the blades only while the clippers are still running when your clippers begin to get warm or between sections of the clip. This is the most efficient way to avoid hair build-up and cool your blades.

3) No mater how mad your clipping skills are, don't forget to draw out your clip with chalk (or charcoal on a grey horse) first. The last thing you want is a horribly lopsided clipping job. I've gotten lazy and made this mistake myself. The old adage "measure twice cut once" is appropriate here. Make sure your horse is standing square on level ground and then check your lines carefully from all angles before you start cutting and you're much less likely to have "fixing" to do later, which is aggravating for both you and your horse.

Fall Is Here, Winter Is Coming, Time To Think About Blankets

We've survived another year of bugs, heat, and general summer misery. We're into cooler weather now which is so much nicer for our horses and ourselves. It also means that winter is coming before too long, so now is the time to prepare. One item on the fall to do list of most horse owners is a thorough inventory of our horses' winter wardrobes.

Our first concern is if we have all the necessary pieces available. What is necessary differs from horse to horse and climate to climate. If you live somewhere warm you may need nothing but a turnout sheet for rainy days. If you live somewhere very cold, you'll probably want lots of insulation. If your horse isn't clipped he may not need any blanketing at all if he has access to good shelter. On the other hand, if you plan to clip him extensively he will need coverage. My dream wardrobe for a horse living in a moderately cold climate, with a substantial clipping job and with regular turnout year round? Lots of layers. I stay more comfortable with a wardrobe of layers, I know my horses will as well. Rather than buy a heavy turnout blanket I would prefer to buy 4-6 lighter blankets.

1. A waterproof breathable turnout sheet. This is your outer most layer. It is easy to hose clean when it gets dirty, will keep your horse clean and his under layers dry and warm.
   
2. A quilted stable blanket (weight depending on climate and how extensively your horse will be clipped). This is your insulating middle layer. These are a pain to wash, but if you keep it sandwiched between the turnout sheet and a fleece or knit liner you probably won't need to launder it at all this winter.
3. At least 1 polar fleece cooler/liner, though I prefer to have 2-3 (one to wear and one to air or launder). These are your base layer next to your horses' skin. On warmer days these will be insulation enough under the turnout sheet. On colder days they keep your quilted blanket clean and add additional warmth. They also double as your cooler after exercise or a hot towel bath. The best part about these as a base layer is that they wash easily and dry quickly. Keeping liners clean and dry is the best thing we can do to prevent skin and coat issues from blanketing.
   
4. At least 1 knit anti-sweat sheet/liner, again I would prefer to have 2-3. These are another base layer. They offer less warmth but better moisture wicking and breathability than the fleece. They can be used directly under the turnout sheet for wet spring or fall days. For turnout this may be preferable to the fleece because it will help dry a horse who has been running around playing. On a really cold day you can put one under the other three layers to trap additional warm air next to your horse's skin. Again they can be used as a lightweight cooler after exercise or a bath. In really cold weather you can progressively cool out your horse by first covering him with an anti-sweat, then as he continues to cool you can put a fleece one over it. Like the fleece ones these are easy to wash, which helps keep our horses' skin happy.

After we've collected everything we need to of course make sure that it is clean, in good repair, and fits properly. Ideally we took care of all of this last spring before we put things away for the summer. But for those of us who procrastinated...we're running out of time and need to get a move on.

Feeding Guidelines That Really Work Part 5 of 5

Guideline 7: Invest In Good Feeders

Good feeder prevent injuy to your horse, keep his food clean to avoid sand colic, and reduce waste to keep your feed bill affordable. What I like:

• For Hay: Tarter Hay Baskets hold a bunch of hay. They are sturdy, with no gaps likely to trap feet or heads, and easy to clean. They are also ground height. Horses are meant to eat with their heads down. It is better for their lungs. The full basket would be great for a small group of horses fed hay in a coral or pasture. It would easily hold an entire 50 pound bale. They also make a half size basket and a quarter size basket. I could easily see mounting a quarter basket in a stall. Check out the baskets at www.tarterfarmandranch.com

• For Grain: I love the good old fashioned rubber feed pans. They won't shatter into sharp pieces if stepped on, they can be easily cleaned and they alow the horse to eat with his head down. For the naughty ponies that like to throw theirs? Find a big rock or brick, scrub it carefully, put it in the middle of the pan and put the feed around it. It won't stop a determined pan thrower, but for those who seem to do so mostly out of excitement it works great. It also slows down feed bolters.

• Great Budget Combo Feeder: Small rubber feed troughs around 30-50 gallons are great combo feeders. Safe and cleanable. Also encourages horses to browse to find all the grain in the bottom with the hay on top.

Guideline 8: Fat is your friend.

Grains and mixed feeds get most of their calorie content from carbohydrates. These are great performance fuel for horses in their prime putting in an hour or more of moderate to intense work per day. But what about the 18 year old schooling pony? Or the OTTB in retraining?

Carbohydrates can trigger laminitis (founder) in many horses, particularly older horses; and contribute to hyperactivity and other behavioral issues in many younger horses. If the rest of the ration is balanced and the horse still needs more calories, adding additional carbohydrates is not always the best option. Protein is another calorie source, but we have to remember that horses are herbivores, there is a limit to the amount of protein their bodies can cope with. High protein diets fed over long periods can cause liver and kidney problems.

A safer and well tolerated calorie source is vegetable oil. Amounts up to 2 cups a day per 1000 lbs of ideal body weight can add valuable calories and fatty acids to horses who need a little boost to their condition without the founder and hyperactivity that can result from carbohydrates.

Guideline 9: Simplify your supplements.

We as horse owners have become addicted to the concept of adding those expensive powders, pellets, and potions to our horses' feed. I'm not saying supplements can't do amazing things for our horses. But some of us have gone overboard. Do your research and supplement based on known problems. Some guidelines I use:

• General Vitamins/Minerals: If your horse is getting good quality hay and the manufacturer recommended minimum of a mixed or pelleted feed your horse definitiely does not need a multivitamin/mineral product. If your horse is not getting these, then he may benefit from a supplement.

• The young horse (under 5): I wouldn't worry about supplements. Adding things at this point is more likely to throw the horse's diet out of balance than to help him. The only thing I would consider outside of something that has been recommended by your vet/farrier to treat a specific problem would be calcium if it is needed to adjust the calcium/phosphous balance of the diet. In young horses this should be 2:1 for proper bone growth.

• The adult horse (5-15 years old) in training/showing: I would potentially look at putting this horse on an anti-oxidant supplement. Anti-oxidants (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Selenium) help to slow the aging process by helping the body repair damage. This is well proven in people and animals. If the horse has issues with weak hooves you might consider a biotin supplement. If his hair or skin could use a little more shine I'd add some olive oil to his feed (see guideline 8). The only other thing I would consider is a Calcium supplement if the Calcium/Phosphorus balance of his diet were undesireable. I wouldn't waste my money on additional supplements for this horse. They are unlikely to help in anyway and could even add up to a toxic dose.

• The older horse (15+ years old): Now is the time to start looking at joint supplements. Most horses this age are starting to slow down a little and get a bit creaky. Chondroitin sulfates and glucosamines are amazing, but are better at slowing down the progress of joint issues than reversing them. So add them when the horse first starts being stiff/off, not when the horse is obviously lame. I would also continue the anti-oxidants and all others from above. Again, I wouldn't waste my money unless I was using a supplement to treat a specific condition.

Guideline 10: Remember to Reassess

Feeding horses is as much an art as a science. What works for one horse doesn't necessarily work for another. What works for one horse one season won't necessarily work the next. So even after we've done our best research and planned the optimal feed programs, we aren't done. We have to continue to watch our horses. Has their actual weight changed from the month before? Is it higher or lower than their ideal weight? Are they lacking for energy? Or are they bouncing off the walls? Have they colicked or foundered? Are we expecting an increase or decrease in their caloric requirements in the month ahead? Any of these things could be a good reason to go back and reassess a horse's feed program.

Feeding Guidelines That Really Work Part 4 of 5

Guideline 5: Roughage Is A Must, Type Is Flexible

While we would all ideally love to feed our horses perfect, leafy grass hay, such hay is getting more difficult to find and more expensive to buy every day. This is less of an issue if you have a 300 pound pony who needs 6 pounds a day. If you have a 1300 pound warmblood who needs 26 pounds a day, you're in for a headache or two.

Alfalfa hay/cubes/pellets, chopped oat straw, beet pulp, and bran are also roughages that can be used to supplement your horse's grass hay and concentrates to ensure that your horse gets enough bulk in his diet without breaking your pocket book. We as horse people simply have to be aware of the issues involved in each.

• Alfalfa hay and products made from it are well tolerated by most horses, provided they are slowly weaned onto it. It is also not acceptable as an unlimited feed for anything other than perhaps pregnant/lactating mares or horses under 2 years of age. Be aware that Alfalfa is much higher in protein and carbohydrate than Grass so you will need to adjust your horse's diet accordingly and it may not be acceptable for horses that are prone to founder. Also, alfalfa cubes have been linked to choke in some cases, so you may want to soak them in water first if your horse has choked in the past or if your horse has a tendency to bolt his feed.

• Beet pulp must be soaked prior to feeding because it absorbs water and expands as it does so. If a horse eats a large amount of dry beet pulp he will colic as a result. The plain pulp must be soaked in an equal volume of water until all water is absorbed, the pelleted kind must be soaked in 3 times the volume of water. It usually takes about 2 hours to soak beet pulp so plan ahead.

• Bran is high is phosphorus, so its feeding should be avoided in horses under two years of age, and in pregnant/lactating mares. Even then I would avoid feeding it in amounts greater than 1% of the daily diet unless you have calculated the calcium/phosphorus balance of the proposed diet and supplemented accordingly.

• Chopped Oat Straw (Chaff) is a commonly used forage in Europe, but sadly nearly impossible to find in the United States. Long stem straw straight out of a bale shouldn't be fed to horses as it has been linked to impaction colics. But chopped straw is a different story. If you can find it, without the mollasses coating, it is a great fiber addition to your horse's diet that adds very few calories and very little starch. I've also heard of pelleted hay products that contain straw, and these would likely be similar.
  

Guideline 6: Keep It Clean

We wouldn't eat off dirty plates or cook in a filthy kitchen, but often we seem to think our horse's don't care. Dirty feed rooms and filthy buckets do nothing but attract rodents and bugs. I'm not saying we ought to run our horses' feed buckets through the dishwasher or scrub the feed room floor with bleach (though that'd be really thorough). But a little soap and water goes a long way.

• Feed & Water Buckets: One thing that has worked for me in the past is to keep a small bottle of dish detergent and a bucket scrub brush hooked next to the hydrant closest to the feed storage. Then before I put fresh feed in the bucket I give it a quick scrub. For slimy water buckets try scrubbing with a splash of chlorine bleach. Just rinse extra carefully...and avoid wearing your best breaches when you do this (been there).

• Immobile Stall Feeders: Personally I loathe these, almost entirely because they are a chore to clean. Best method I've found? Get a wet dry vaccume. Vaccume out all the dust and dirt while the feeder is dry, then add a spot of soap and a cup or so of water and scrub away. Vaccume out the dirty water, add clean water and scrub again. Rinse and repeat until clean. Takes forever, and you'll never get them as clean as you would a bucket, but it's better than nothing.
  

• Feed Room: I've never been really together on cleaning, but what has worked for me is when I buy new grain, the bin gets dumped and the feed room floor gets swept. Then at least the floor doesn't build up too much filth, and the old feed dust doesn't spoil the new feed.

Feeding Guidelines That Really Work Part 3 of 5

Guideline 4: Understand the usefulness and drawbacks of mixed and pelleted feeds.

Mixed and pelleted feeds are often vitamin/mineral supplemented. This is a good and a bad thing. The good thing is that if fed according to the directions, they can save you money by providing balanced nutritional supplementation without the need for an additional supplement. The bad thing is when they are fed in quantities never intended by the manufacturer or the horse owner feels compelled to add an additional vitamin/mineral supplement to the already supplemented feed.

First of all the over-supplementation issue: Some is good, more is not always better. Read labels closely and discuss possible interactions with your vet before adding additional supplements that contain the same vitamins/minerals as your feed if your horse is already on a supplemented grain.

Second the amount fed issue: This is where choosing the right feed is important. Many feeds require about 3 lbs to be fed in order for your horse to get the full vitamin/mineral dose. If your horse will keep weight and maintain energy on less than this (or whatever the recommendation is) then you are effectively throwing money down the drain by paying for supplements your horse isn't getting. So choose feeds with care. You want to be able to feed the full amount to take advantage of the supplementation without extra weight gain or hyperactivity.

For the easy keepers that don't need 3 lbs of concentrates, you might assess why you want to give them grain in the first place. Not every horse needs grain; if your horse is in good health, recieves good quality forage and has no need for specialty supplements or medications, then perhaps you should put the bucket away. But sometimes there is a logical reason to find something you can put in that bucket without all the extra calories.

Maybe your hay is stemmy and otherwise less than ideal because of a bad drought in your area last year and you want to get a general vitamin/mineral supplement down him to help offset the poor hay. Maybe you have an older semi-retired school master who needs grain in which to hide the daily joint supplement and gram of powdered bute that keep him sound. Or maybe you have the one horse in the barn that doesn't get grain and he gets so distressed at feeding time from “bucket envy” you are worried he's going to injure himself.

In all these cases, finding something that you can put in that bucket may be the best solution. If you like the prepackaged and presupplemented convenience of mixed grains or pellets then try one of the newer products on the market meant for the easy keepers. Products like these are meant to be fed in the 1 pound kind of quantity and still give the horse all his vitamins/minerals without all the extra calories. Purina makes a line of these called under the name Enrich. As with all prepackaged feeds, please read and follow the directions on the package.

If you are more the DIY type, try my recipe below.

Lindsey's Daily Vitamin Mash:

1/2 Cup Mollasses (Can reduce or omit for founder prone horses.)

1/2 Cup Olive Oil

1 Dose Vitamin/Mineral Supplement of Your Choice

Specialty Supplements or Medications As Needed

1/2 Teaspoon Sea Salt

1/4 Pound (Approximately 1/2 Quart) Bran

1/4 Pound (Approximately 1/2 Quart) Rolled Oats

Add ingredients to feed bucket in order, stirring constantly, adding just a little water if necessary to form a stiff mash.